Nyatopola Temple, Bhaktapur

Every trip to Nepal begins in the capital of Kathmandu. Endorsed by the UNESCO as a World Heritage Site, the Kathmandu Valley, is in actuality comprised of three distinct cities - Kathmandu, Lalitpur (Patan), and Bhaktapur - all of which boast rich histories and artistic achievements.

Urban Kathmandu now encompasses Kathmandu and Lalitpur to create a worldly, cosmopolitan environment, while Bhaktapur retains the feeling of a medieval walled city, and small villages all along the Valley rim still practice their traditional ways of life. In one day, you can experience many layers of history, yet a full week is still not enough to fully appreciate the diverse heritage of this fertile Valley.

Kathmandu Durbar Square

Kathmandu
The heart of Kathmandu proper still beats in Durbar Square (Palace Square). Although it opens on to New Road, the center of Kathmandu's electronics and luxury goods import business, Durbar Square itself still conjures up images of the divine royalty who once ruled the city.Merchants of all shapes and sizes throng below its grand monuments, and one can imagine a king emerging briefly to greet his subjects. Hanuman Dhoka stands guard at the far end of the Square - the ancient seat of Nepalese kings, it is a complex of temples and monuments guarded by the veritable monkey god, Hanuman. It is still used for government purposes today. The temple of Kasthamandap, from which the city takes its name, is a large pavilion with a multileveled-pagoda roof located nearby. In addition to many other remarkable temples, the Square now houses the National Museum, which provides a rich introduction to the country’s history. Nearby, you can visit the bustling market areas of Asan Tol and Indra Chowk, where nearly everything imaginable is available, from shiny glass beads and bangles to delicious curry spices to imported jeans and shoes.

Patan
Heading south across the Bagmati river, one reaches Patan, or Lalitpur, which literally means the “city of arts”. Maintaining an exquisite array of temples and palaces, it is also home to many contemporary Newar artisans who have followed in their ancestors’ footsteps, continuing to make the gods come to life in the mediums of stone, metal, and wood in which they work. The city's Newars practice a fascinating mix of Buddhism and Hinduism, which is reflected in their unique artistic style. In the Buddhist bahals of Kwa Bahal and Mahabouddha, thousands of intricately carved tiny buddhas bring blessings to the city, while its inhabitants visit these temples to spin prayer wheels and make donations to monks. Nearby in Patan's own Durbar Square, the elaborate Indian-style Krishna Mandir carved of stone pays homage to one of Hinduism's most important deities. In front of the palace - a beautiful old structure of wood and brick which has been recently renovated and now houses the Patan Museum - devotees of both faiths stroll across the promenade bringing offerings to their deities of choice. Small stone temples abound throughout the back alleys of the city, dotted between artisan's workshops where you can purchase silver jewelery or stone statues. Just out of the city center in Jawalakhel, Tibetan refugees produce their famous richly woven carpets. An afternoon spent wandering through this intriguing labyrinth of spiritual faith and artistic expertise can be extremely rewarding.

Bhaktapur
About fifteen kilometers or a half hour's ride away from Kathmandu lies Bhaktapur, the "city of devotees". With no cars inside the city's gates, a walk through its brick-paved alleyways and broad squares transports you to another century. Impeccably restored by a German-Nepali project, the temples of Durbar and Dattatreya Squares, as well as Taumadhi Tole, are magnificent. Traditionally a center for fine woodwork and pottery, the Potters’ Square is still in full operation today, displaying fresh terracotta works every day. The finely carved windows found all over the city, are exemplified by the famous Peacock Window, and are a real pleasure to the eye.

Landmark Monuments
Boudhanath and Swayambhunath are important Buddhist monuments on the outskirts of Kathmandu. To the northeast of the city center, Boudhanath is one of the largest Buddhist stupas in the world. Its painted Buddha eyes are striking, as is the sound of bells and monks chanting as devotees circle the monument spinning its hundreds of prayer wheels. The center of the Tibetan community in the city, you can meet monks and pilgrims, nuns and lamas from the farthest corners of the Tibetan cultural world, many dressed in traditional attire. You can also visit grand monasteries filled with golden Buddha statues, and observe the monks during their daily prayer practices. Located at the northwest corner of the city, Swayambhunath is smaller, yet similar in appearance to Boudhanath. However, it has the distinction of being the oldest stupa in the area - the story goes that the Bodhisattva Manjushri arose on a lotus on top of Swayambhu hill and threw his thunderbolt to create Chobar Gorge (to the south of the city) and drain the ancient lake which once covered the entire Kathmandu Valley. Perched atop a steep hill, Swayambhunath is surrounded by trees and greenery and makes a perfect retreat from the busy city. One gains religious merit by climbing the three hundred odd steps to reach the temple, and the views from the top are a rich worldly reward. For Hindus, Pashupatinath is one of the most important pilgrimage sites in the world. Located just south of Boudhanath, it is the largest Hindu temple complex in Nepal. You can wander through the surrounding forests and come upon temple after stone-carved temple, many occupied by Hindu ascetics known as sadhus, and others occupied only by monkeys! This is also the site where Kathmandu’s Hindus cremate their dead on the banks of the sacred Bagmati river which flows into the Ganges, and cremation processions are a frequent site here. These are just a few of the landmark monuments that make Kathmandu a treat for the mind and soul, not to mention the hikes up hills like Swayambhu to challenge the body! There are many, many more fascinating sites to visit. A few days or a week spent in Kathmandu is a fascinating journey through history, and a perfect way to begin or end your travels in other parts of Nepal.

Nagarkot

While enjoying the comfort of your Kathmandu hotel, take a day trip to the Valley's edge. Mountains await you there, along with friendly people willing to show you their more traditional ways of life. Yet all of these trips can be done in just one day, returning you to central Kathmandu by evening.

Nagarkot is the classic mountain viewpoint resort, located about an hour northeast of the city. Rise early for a sunrise panorama view of the peaks stretching from Annapurna in the west, past Mt. Everest and all the way to the Kanchenjunga range in the East. This is your chance to see Everest's icy summit without leaving the warmth of your lodge's fire!

Also in this direction a bit farther along the Arniko Highway to Tibet, Dhulikhel offers an exciting combination of mountain views and an old, Newari merchant village to explore. The journey to Dhulikhel takes you through many picturesque villages, and it is a perfect staging point for many day-long hikes to other points of interest in the area. A short hike to the Kali temple above the town brings you into close contact with both the mountains and the dark goddess herself, while a longer day-trip takes you to Namo Buddha, the third important Buddhist stupa in the Valley in addition to Boudhanath and Swayambhunath. Here, the Buddha is said to have offered his flesh to a hungry tigress.

On a hill outside of Bhaktapur, Changu Narayan is the oldest temple in the Valley, built in 323 A.D. Its hilltop position gives a gorgeous view of Kathmandu city below, while the temple itself basks in quiet serenity.

To the northwest of the city, Kakani is a quiet outpost that served as a retreat for the long-ago British Residents of Kathmandu. With few hotels, its quiet splendor lets you view the northwestern Himalayan panorama in solitude and explore the surrounding alpine scenery as you please. Also in this direction, the Nagarjuna Nature Preserve offers excellent day hikes through lush green forests and wildflowers in season.

On the southern side of the city, a day trip to Dakshinkali and Pharping brings you into the heart of both Hindu and Buddhist communities in a short time. The most important Kali temple in the area, Dakshinkali is the site of blood sacrifices on holy days. Surrounded by forests, it is a beautiful place to watch the steady stream of Hindu devotees coming to pay homage to the goddess. Nearby is the Tibetan Buddhist settlement of Pharping, where you can visit a number of monasteries, as well as a sacred Vajrayogini cave - the image of the Buddhist goddess on rock is said to be self-emanating.

Also in this general direction, one finds the Godavari Royal Botanical Gardens and Phoolchowki Hill. The Gardens represent unusual plants from all over South Asia and should be a treat for any plant lover and are a pleasant retreat from the city. Just further down the road, one begins the climb towards Phoolchowki, the highest peak on the Valley rim and an excellent Himalayan vantage point. This can be done in a car, but more intrepid travellers may wish to walk at least one way so as to enjoy the wide array of wildflowers up close.

Gorkha Durbar

To the east, one can visit Dolakha and Charikot in a few days time. A historic Newar trading town, Dolakha boasts the impressive Bhimsenthan and Devikot temples. Its charming alleyways stretch out on a hilly spur, granting wide views of lush green valleys on all sides. Charikot, the Dolakha district headquarters, offers fantastic views of the double-peaked Gauri Shankar massif, as well as the lesser-known stretch of central-eastern mountains surrounding it. From here, day hikes can be made to Kalingcok, a sacred peak at 3690 meters that offers magnificent Himalayan views and hosts thousands of local pilgrims every year.

Trishuli is a small town on the beautiful banks of the Trishuli River, 75 kilometers north of Kathmandu on the way to the Langtang National Park. The ride to Trishuli takes you through many different eco-systems, as well as ethnic areas. The Western Himalaya hover above in all their glory while you stop at local tea-shops to chat with villagers and soak in the warm mountain sun.

Daman was one of the first hill towns to be developed as a mountain-viewing resort, and it maintains its splendor to this day. 80 kilometers north of Kathmandu, there is no better place to view the peaks as they extend in a snowy arc from Dhaulagiri in the west to Everest in the east.

A trip to Kodari takes you up to the Sino-Nepali border, and cruises through diverse eco-systems including the Bhote Koshi river valley and scenic hillside villages. You can stop at a hot springs along the way, or visit villages just off the road. If you don't have time to visit Tibet itself, reaching the border lets you see the mountains on the other side!

Manakamana is one of the more important Hindu pilgrimage sites in the country, and recently the first high-tech cable car in Nepal has been built to access it. This makes the trip possible in one day, and floating over the hilltops in your cable car is a unique experience unavailable anywhere else in the country.

Phewa Lake, Pokhara

Pokhara
Nestled in a fertile valley below the Annapurna massif, Pokhara is known for its stunning mountain views and its relaxed lifestyle. A perfect point to begin and end any trek in the Annapurna area, Pokhara boasts one of Nepal's largest lakes, the Phewa Tal. All along the lakeside are resorts, hotels, and tourist amenities that make this a wonderful place to relax at any time of the year.

From the lakeside area, the panorama of Annapurna, Machapuchre (Fish Tail), and Dhaulagiri is truly breath-taking, especially as you can enjoy it and bask in Pokhara's sub-tropical warmth at the same time! A sunrise or sunset boat trip out on the lake lets you enjoy the mountains and their reflections in the lake's calm waters. You can also visit the island temple of Tal Barahi and explore the far shores of the lake, or simply drift aimlessly soaking in the sun as you view the icy Himalayan peaks.

Other attractions in Pokhara include scenic natural formations like Mahendra Caves and Devi's Falls. Temples such as Binde Basini abound, and surrounding Pokhara are many traditional Gurung villages well worth a day's visit.

Gorkha, a small town but of historical importance to the country lies west of Kathmandu, and can be reached by following the Prithvi Highway towards Pokhara and then turning off south or north respectively. It is the historic seat of the Shah kings who united Nepal, beginning with Prithvi Narayan Shah in 1769. Their palace still stands fortified high on a hillside, and recalls the majesty of Nepal's past.

Tansen
Tansen is an old trading town on the banks of the lower Kali Gandaki river. Its beautiful surroundings and bustling bazaar are worth a few days of exploration.

Lumbini
Lumbini, the birthplace of Lord Buddha, is situated 250 kilometers south-west of Kathmandu. A broken pillar erected in 249 BC by the first major Buddhist ruler of India, Emperor Ashoka, proclaims in a now-extinct script that the Buddha was born there and that the emperor made three pilgrimages to the holy spot.

Lumbini's status as a garden of peace has been recognized the world over and its development is being undertaken by Buddhists from everywhere. In the same spirit, the Nepali government formed the Lumbini Development Trust in 1985 to oversee the development of the entire Lumbini area as a religious and pilgrimage centre.

Jiri

With the opening up of the Kanchenjunga Conservation Area for trekking and the popularization of the Koshi Tappu Wildlife Reserve for bird watching, the eastern region of the kingdom is gradually seeing more visitors from afar.

Still, a visit to this realm of the kingdom may only be for the diehard Nepalophile adventurer, or to those with a special interest in mind. Whatever may be the reason, once if you are there, here are some places not to miss:

Basantapur, at 2323 m. is a fascinating hill-top town with a thriving bazaar. Here one has the opportunity to see a colorful melange of the peoples of the east; Walangchungpas from the far north border, and neighbouring hill people like Rais and Limboos. All this, set amidst beautiful scenary of rhododendron flowers and the Himalayas in the background.

Hile lies along the route between Dhankuta and Basantapur. This is another good spot for great mountain views.

Antu Danda is a much promoted by various local guide books. At 1677 m., this place is recommended for spendid views of both Mt. Everest and Mt. Kanchenjunga.